Projects of small brick baths.  Projects of baths from gas silicate blocks.  Beautiful brick baths.  A photo

Projects of small brick baths. Projects of baths from gas silicate blocks. Beautiful brick baths. A photo

Recently, bricks have been increasingly used to build baths in suburban areas. This is explained by the fact that such baths are distinguished from chopped buildings by the durability of the material and the possibility of various finishes. But before you build a brick bath, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules of work in order to carry out all the construction procedures correctly.

In this article, we will look at how a brick bath is built with our own hands, we will describe all the construction processes from laying the foundation to the exterior.

When choosing a material, first of all, it is necessary to take into account the high humidity of the building under construction. Experts recommend the following options.

  1. Solid brick is well suited for laying walls. It is strictly forbidden to lay out the oven with them.
  2. Fireclay. Very durable and refractory material, ideal for a sauna stove.
  3. Hollow. Such a brick can be used for the construction of partitions, but not for walls, and even more so for a foundation.
  4. Red ceramic. This material has high moisture resistance and fire resistance, and this is the most suitable option for building walls.
  5. Clinker brick. Also a good option. It is made from high quality clay, it is not "afraid" of high temperatures and is resistant to mechanical damage.

Note! When choosing a brick, pay attention to its color. For example, a bright scarlet hue indicates that it was aged quite a bit in the oven, and this was reflected in the quality of hardening. A brick with a purple-brown tint is also undesirable - this is a burnt low-quality material.

Location selection

Most convenient option erection of a bath - near a small reservoir, but at the same time minimum distance from the water should be at least 15 meters. Also, according to fire regulations, such buildings cannot be located near residential buildings, although now many people neglect these requirements.

Before making a brick bath, the construction site is cleared of all debris and the top layer of soil is removed by 200 mm. Then, using pegs and twine, mark out a place for the foundation.

Foundation device technology

  1. First you need to level the place.
  2. Then an approximate markup is carried out, taking into account the fact that the width of the foundation should be 10–15 cm larger than the wall.
  3. First you need to mark from the inside. To do this, pegs are driven in from the inner corners and twine is pulled between them.
  4. After that, the approximate width of the wall of the building is calculated, and the pegs are driven in from the outside, also stretching the twine between them.

Note! After you have completely marked out the place for the foundation, you need to approximately measure the distance between the internal marks. Please allow a slight discrepancy of 2-3 cm.

After marking, a trench is dug. Before pouring the solution to the bottom, it is necessary to fill in layers of sand and gravel (15 cm each). All layers are spilled with water and compacted. Then, over this layer, you need to pour cement mortar, about 10 cm, and leave for 5-6 days.

While the solution dries, you need to build the formwork and install it inside the trench. Make it 30-40 cm above the soil level. Then it is necessary to carry out reinforcement, it will give strength to the foundation. To do this, you can use any metal waste: corner, channel or fittings. They are distributed inside the trench and tied with steel wire.

Gradual pouring of the solution

  1. The finished solution must be poured in small layers of 30 cm.
  2. After pouring, each of the layers is carefully compacted.
  3. When the trench is filled 10 cm above the ground, it is necessary to lay asbestos or plastic pipes equal in length to the width of the foundation - for ventilation, and pour the rest of the solution.

Note! The first 7 days the solution will gain strength. Hardening will begin no earlier than this period, and if work is carried out in hot weather, the foundation must be moistened to avoid cracking. In rainy weather, on the contrary, it is better to cover the entire surface with roofing material. Work on the construction of walls can begin only after three weeks.

Before erecting walls, the entire surface of the foundation is laid with roofing material. For reliable fastening, it is lubricated with bitumen at the beginning.

Foundation for a brick bath

For brick bath the foundation is made according to several technologies, the choice of which is influenced by the characteristics of the soil at the construction site, the size of the bath and the materials used.

  1. Monolithic or strip foundation for a bath. This option is more suitable for sandy or rocky soil.
  2. For clay or peat soil, a pile version of the foundation is more suitable. It is also suitable for building baths on a slope or in lowlands.

Masonry method

There are two ways to lay out walls.

  • You can make masonry in 1.5 or 2 bricks and additionally insulate the walls from the inside.
  • Also often used is the construction of double walls, which are connected by a transverse partition, and the voids between them are filled with a heat insulator.

Rules for laying a brick wall

  1. The first row must be laid out completely over the entire foundation. You need to use the double masonry option only from the second row.
  2. Broken bricks are used only for laying a row of spoons, from the inside of the wall. It is strictly forbidden to use broken bricks for laying out columns, piers and dressings of corners.
  3. For floor beams, only the bonded row of bricks should be supported.
  4. If ceramic brick is used, then it must be moistened with water before laying.
  5. When laying out the wall to evenly distribute the load, it is necessary to carry out the dressing of the masonry.
  6. Longitudinal vertical seams must be tied up in half a brick.

Note! The displacement of the transverse brick is carried out in each row by half a brick, this is a laborious, but reliable system for laying out walls.

Roofing

Depending on the version of the roof device (single or gable), the choice of material and the sequence of work depend. Any material can be used for the roof, and all supporting structures, beams and lintels must be treated with antiseptics to prevent decay.

Bath roof insulation

After the walls and roof are erected, the brick bath must be insulated. Particular attention should be paid to the roof of the building. This process goes as follows.

  1. In the attic room of the bath, a crate is installed in increments of 50 cm.
  2. A layer of fiberglass is laid on it.
  3. Then comes a layer of insulation - it is recommended to use basalt wool or expanded polystyrene plates.
  4. The insulation is covered with building foil and the crate is covered with plywood soaked in antiseptics.

Note! When insulating the ceiling, it is necessary to treat all the rails used for the crate with a special impregnation.

Exterior finish

If in the case of a chopped building, the walls themselves are a good finish, then, given the specifics of the material, it is the brick bath that has a greater choice for exterior and interior decoration. You can perform almost any type of finish, starting with ordinary plaster and ending with the laying of thermal panels.

Internal lining

Such work also does not present any particular difficulties. It is necessary to carry out the lathing of the entire surface with the laying of insulation and vapor barrier. A lining is stuffed over the crate. Just keep in mind that hardwoods are used for the steam room, and the dressing room and washing compartment can be trimmed with coniferous lumber.

Note! When buying lining for interior decoration, pay special attention to the quality of drying of the material.

Building a brick bath is not an easy task. But if you choose this particular material, you can realize any design idea.

Materials for building a bath: wood, foam block and brick. The erected brick structure is slightly superior to the construction of the thermal conductivity beam, wins in terms of fire safety and service life.

To reduce the cost of the amount of material, special masonry methods are used - voids in the wall. They are compacted with other raw materials. Due to this, the thermal parameters of the structure increase.

Features and benefits of a brick bath

Brick as a building material has several advantages:

  • durability - service life of 100 years or more;
  • increased fire resistance;
  • lack of exterior finish - when using facing bricks;
  • the strength of the elements is the creation of the structure of any structure.

The place for construction must be dry. If there is a river or other body of water nearby, then the building must be located at least 30 m from the water. At a closer distance, there is a danger of spring flooding.

When erecting, fire safety regulations are taken into account, the distance to any building is at least 12 m (firewood baths) and at least 5 m when heated by an electric or gas boiler.

Preparation for the construction of a bath: drafting a project

The brick steam room scheme includes drawings and plans of the facility. They reflect:

  1. Appearance of all facades. The papers indicate the overall size, single parts and components. Cladding work explained.
  2. General drawings of each floor. For buildings on the plan, the location of load-bearing walls, all partitions, windows, doors and stairs is detailed. Their parameters are specified. The sequence of engineering equipment and risers is specified.
  3. roof projection. Configuration, dimensions with indication of structural components.
  4. room sketch, entrance and flights of stairs in longitudinal and perpendicular section.

Based on the documents, calculations of the entire bath system for stability are made. Schemes are the basis for the implementation of construction work. - standard sizes for a suburban area.

The bath construction project includes a set of engineering and technical documents:

  • Papers on the heating and ventilation system.
  • Documents on sewer supply.
  • Certificates for electrical wiring and gas supply (if any).

Upon submission of all documents, an estimate is made. It indicates all types of work, the volume and cost of the object. The paper covers the quantity and price of materials.

Calculation of construction costs

Construction costs consist of several stages of work:

  1. Foundation.
  2. Construction of walls and roofs.
  3. Communication works, furnace construction, finishing.

The base of the bath can be tape and columnar. For it is recommended to use a columnar foundation, it is 10% cheaper. The tape base is used more often because of the ease of installation. The price of a foundation on piles for a small structure is from 30,000 rubles.

The price of brick walls depends on the brand and manufacturer. It is taken into account that the cost of building material varies from region to region. Since the wall is laid in two bricks, the bath from it turns out to be more expensive than from other material.

The average price of red full-bodied raw materials (250x120x65mm) is from 10 rubles apiece. D For a small one-story bath measuring 3x3 m, you will need about 5500 bricks (laying in two bricks). For the construction of one and a half - about 4200 pieces, for laying in one brick - 2800.

Inexpensive roofing - a shed roof covered with roofing felt or slate. The price of a soft roll of roofing material is from 270 rubles per roll. For a roof, the minimum number of layers of material is two. The area of ​​a shed roof is calculated from the multiplied length and width of the base. The height of the lift and the length of the overhang are added to the value. The cost of a standard slate sheet is from 180 rubles.

calculation of approximate costs

At the last stage, the laying of communication systems, the oven, insulation and finishing are taken into account. Their minimum price, taking into account the material:

  • Chimney, stove - from 22,000 rubles.
  • Finishing work lining from 10000.
  • Wiring - from 5000.
  • Insulation - 4000.
  • Additional expenses, consumables, furnishings - from 10,000.

With this in mind, the minimum cost of a small bath will be around 137,000 rubles.

Sauna with dressing room and veranda

When building a room with additional rooms, a bath will cost at least one and a half times more. But it can be used instead of brick, reducing costs.

The following requirements must be met:

  • High-quality insulation for being indoors in a "steamed" state.
  • Good ventilation to avoid condensation on the walls and ceiling.
  • The area of ​​the dressing room is from 1.3 m² per person.

If the construction is planned with, then it should be borne in mind that the room differs in its location and configuration. The veranda can be glazed. But this incurs additional costs. How a bathhouse with a gazebo and a barbecue may look like is described in detail in this

Arbors for a bath are of the following types:

  • Frontal position: extension on the facade of the building.
  • Side: Location on either side of the structure.
  • Corner location: used when the main walls of the bath are located at a right angle.
  • Girdle: covers the entire perimeter.

Construction technology

The construction of the bath begins with laying the foundation. The foundation can be tape and columnar. Its choice is determined by the materials used for the object. Strip foundation - brick, foam blocks and other piece raw materials. Columnar - mostly wood. Rarely used foundation on piles and bored base.

Strip foundation

It is erected for a bathhouse located on the ground from forest, garden or swamp soil, as well as for. First, a foundation pit is dug, about 1 m is enough for a bath. Sand 20 cm thick is poured into the trench, it is watered and compacted. The next layer is crushed stone (10 cm), filled with a cement mixture. From above - again sand. The result is several layers of raw materials.

If the soil is prone to movement, then the depth of the base should be more than 1 m. On the finished foundation lay out a film of polyethylene or the surface is poured with a thin layer of concrete (no more than 10 cm). The mixture hardens for about 5 days.

The next step: installation of formwork with a fixed height above the soil surface (30 cm). Reinforcement is being installed and assembled into a frame. Sections are connected by wire. The formwork is filled with concrete, a layer of 20 cm. The mixture is compacted to eliminate voids.

Concrete is poured from a height of no more than 0.5 m. This will prevent the composition from delamination.

The formwork is removed a week later, after the mortar has solidified. The outer walls of the foundation are smeared with mastic for waterproofing, roofing material is laid on top, the sinuses between the base and the soil are covered with clay or sand.

columnar base

It is erected on the ground with coarse sand, fine gravel or clay. Construction takes place by installing concrete or brick pillars at intervals up to 2 m. The main rule is to ensure the design of the exact vertical position. Post size: 50x50 cm.

A hole is dug for the pillars, if up to 1 m, then without spacers, more than one meter - additional fastenings from boards are needed. The depth should be 30 cm more than the foundation itself, width: from 20 to 40 cm in each direction. A pillow of sand and gravel is laid at the bottom of the pits, it is poured with water and compacted. From above, polyethylene or roofing material is installed.

Formwork is installed in the pits along the walls (the vertical is checked by a plumb line). The foundation is reinforced with longitudinal reinforcement with wire. Its height above the soil is 20 cm. Concrete is poured into the formwork and left until the composition has completely solidified.

Ground floor device

Work begins after the completion of the installation of the foundation. The plinth is made of bricks in several rows. The top row is equipped with an auxiliary opening for ventilation. The drain pipe is mounted under the base of the structure and is led out to a distance of at least 5 m.

Wall masonry

Brick walls are of three types:

  1. With air voids in the wall - up to 6 cm wide.
  2. Ring-shaped masonry: thermal insulation is laid between rows.
  3. Walls without gaps: require cladding on the inside with high-quality insulation.

An economical option is ring-shaped laying. Installation requires the presence of transverse walls installed every three bricks. The gaps are filled as the septum grows. Compaction of the filler: every 15 cm. The third layer is watered with lime.

It is taken into account that the basement and often the base of the building below the waterproofing is constructed from solid bricks, above the insulation is hollow material. The mixture for construction is kneaded from sand (grain from 1 to 2.5 mm), cement, water and lime.

For the construction of the corners of the bath, a mooring cord is required (a guideline for laying a row). The use of the tool ensures horizontal and straight masonry. In addition, a building angle, level is used. External walls are laid at least one and a half bricks, internal partitions - permissible in one.

Masonry over openings

Lintels are installed over window and door openings. When installing them, the horizontal row is observed.

The height of the lintels should be from 6 to 9 rows of masonry, the length should be 1.5 m more than the width of the opening. For lintels, selective bricks are used, which are installed on a mixture of grades of at least 25. The design requires timber formwork. Before laying, a thin layer of cement of 2 cm is applied to it. Reinforcement is inserted into it - steel rods of 6 mm.

The jumper on the formwork is kept up to a day.

The construction of the furnace


The source of heat in the bath can be:

  1. Electric stone stove: requires electricity with good grounding.
  2. Brick oven: requires special skills when arranging.
  3. Cast iron or metal product.

The heater is installed in three ways:

  • in the center of the steam room in a large room.
  • next to the load-bearing wall - it will warm up all the bath rooms.
  • near the partition: dressing room and steam room.

The location is regulated by SNiP 41-01-2003. For the correct installation of the furnace, the following requirements are met:

  • Separate foundation: depends on the weight of the device. The area is 2 times larger than the base of the stove. For the manufacture, a brick is used, filled with a concrete screed and covered with a steel sheet.
  • Hood: the hole is on the opposite side.
  • Chimney without sharp bends. Insulated with mineral wool to prevent condensation. The exit and the joint are insulated with fire-fighting materials.
  • The stove is located from the wall at a distance of 30 cm. If the surfaces are sheathed with non-combustible raw materials, then 20 cm.
  • The water tank is mounted above the stove. Water heats up faster and cools down more slowly.
  • The floor covering around the heater is protected by galvanized sheet. The wall near the firebox is sheathed with metal.
  • The door of the product should swing open in the opposite direction from the wall. Railings and barriers are required.

The bath must have fire safety equipment.

Roof installation

The roof is single-pitched and double-pitched. Consists of a supporting frame. Its elements: roof truss, lathing and roofing. A mauerlat is installed on the brick box of the bath - a wooden beam connecting the structure and the rafter. A rafter system is mounted to the wood, a crate is laid on top of it.

The design of the truss is determined by the type of floor and roof. For a shed roof, the rafters rest against the walls of the building. The greater the height difference between the walls, the higher the angle of inclination. For a gable structure, a series of successively placed triangles is formed, consisting of rafters and lintels. The highest point is the ridge of the roof. Here a reinforcing crossbar is installed.

The crate is stuffed on top of the structure with different pitches. For roofing material no more than 1 cm, for corrugated board up to 50 cm.

Insulation and finishing of walls and roofs

A waterproofing barrier is used to protect the building from moisture. Membrane film is used. A waterproofing layer is installed on the rafter system and covered with a crate. Steam barrier between ceiling insulation and lining. The film is laid with an overlap of 20 cm, the sheets are fastened with construction tape.

Basalt wool is used as a roof insulation.

The ceiling of the bath inside is not insulated with polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam. The materials contain toxic phenol fumes that evaporate during the heating of the room.

At the end of the construction of the roof, roofing material is placed on it. Sheathing is carried out with wood or siding. The outside walls are finished with plaster. A metal mesh is attached to the surface, holding the applied mixture.

You can decorate the walls in half-timbered style. The base is covered with plaster and painted with light-colored paint. A decorative layout of artificially aged dark-colored parts is applied to the surface. When sheathing from the inside, lining is used. Profiles and rails are attached to the wall with dowels or nails. Foil thermal insulation is laid between the material and the wall.

Engineering communications equipment

The necessary communication is carried out in the erected structure. The water supply is supplied with a metal-plastic pipe, it is previously laid under the soil in a protective sheath with insulation. Sewerage is installed with a plastic drain pipe underground. It connects to the common drain manifold of the house.

Electricity is supplied by underground and overhead cable lines. In the absence of special skills, it is better to use the help of professionals.

Conclusion

The construction of a bath is a serious and troublesome business that requires the preparation of design and permit documentation. A brick structure expands the design possibilities of the building and allows you to diversify the construction projects.

Brick bath - the ability to fit the building into the exterior of the yard country house. The material is not inferior to a log house with proper insulation and waterproofing of surfaces. The article discusses the pros and cons of the solution. Ready-made projects are given and a guide is given for the independent construction of a bathhouse on the site.

brick bath

For brick, there are fewer restrictions in choosing a place for construction and in implementing the configuration of the premises. A refractory material is chosen for the bath building.

Brick bath: pros and cons

Of the advantages of a brick bath, there are:

  • fire safety;
  • life time;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • variety of projects;
  • ease of operation.

The clay from which I make bricks is a natural material, so we can talk about its environmental friendliness. Wood at the construction stage of the bath is treated with fire retardants and anti-rot preparations, which carry harmful impurities. It is impossible to set fire to the blocks, which is important for the building, because solid fuel stoves are used, in the furnace of which the temperature reaches 600 °. A brick bath will last 60 and more years with proper care. A structure made of timber can withstand the same period, but the cost of maintenance is 2-3 times higher. Rounded or planed timber is not bent, which interferes with the creation of designer buildings. The shape of the bath wall from the blocks is made curvilinear if the project requires it.

When choosing a material, take into account the cons:

  • heat capacity;
  • the need for insulation;
  • moisture absorption;
  • price;
  • foundation.

The thermal conductivity of a brick is higher than that of wood, so it is necessary to insulate the bath with an insulator. Micropores in the blocks absorb moisture, breaking down from temperature changes and losing strength. A brick bath project can cost more than a log of the same size. The weight of the building requires a strong foundation, which also increases costs and creates problems on unstable ground.

What kind of brick is better to build a bath

When erecting the walls of a brick bath, well masonry is used, a feature of which is the presence of an air gap between the planes. This approach allows you to insulate the surface from the inside. Of the blocks used:

  • red ceramic brick;
  • red porous brick.

Ceramic is suitable for cladding and masonry. Blocks are produced solid or hollow. The former have a greater bearing capacity, the latter - thermal insulation properties. A solid brick is laid in two rows if the walls of the bath are erected from it. Hollow is not suitable for plinths and chimneys.

Porous blocks are a molded mixture with clay to which sawdust is added. During firing, the latter turn into ashes, forming voids, which is important for thermal insulation properties. Thermal conductivity is comparable to that of rounded timber. Advantages: soundproofing, light weight and strength.

Advice! If it is planned to insulate the walls of the bath with mineral wool and arrange waterproofing, then silicate brick for construction is also suitable.

How to build a brick bath

Before the construction of a brick bath, a place is chosen on the site in accordance with the norms of SNiP. It is removed from the neighbor's fence by 1 m. In this case, the roof slope should end at the owner's site. If there is a building made of wood on the neighbor’s territory, then the distance from the bathhouse to it should be more than 15 m. The same gap is maintained to open sources of drinking water and the forest. A brick bath not adjacent to the house is removed by 8 m and from the roadway by 5 m.

After choosing the territory, they are determined with the project, which is necessary for counting the building material and calculating the supplied communications. The number of blocks for walls is determined by dividing the surface area by the brick area. Take into account the thickness of the seam so that there is no excess. Choose the type of pitched or flat roof for a brick bath. The latter is not suitable for areas with heavy snowfalls in winter. To reduce the cost of the project, the roof is covered with a profile sheet. Its quantity is determined by the example with bricks.

Windows and doors for a bath made of bricks are made of plastic. They are resistant to moisture and do not deform when the temperature changes. Under the red brick, laminated frames with wood imitation are suitable. One sash is made open for ventilation. A small window is placed inside the steam room to reduce heat loss. The entrance door to the bath is made of wood or plastic.

Brick bath projects

Above is a project of a brick bath with a size of 6 by 4. It is implemented in small areas in country houses or cottages. The building is divided into three parts. Half is occupied by a rest room, which is equipped according to personal preferences. The furnace for the steam room is led into it. The washing room is transitional, it is combined with a bathroom to save space inside the bath.

This brick bath project has an attic, which houses a billiard room and a gym. The shower room and bathroom are separated, there is a guest room that will allow you to receive relatives and friends. The area of ​​the steam room is enough for 3-4 people who can be inside at the same time. There is a brazier or barbecue on the terrace.

The option shown in the drawing is a complete one. Vacation home from a brick with a bath inside. It is distinguished from the previous one by a large area and the presence of a font. The latter is filled with cold water for a contrast effect on the human body. It replaces the pool and is cheaper. A separate room is provided for storing firewood, which allows not to litter the rest room. The terrace surrounds the brick bath from two sides, expanding the area for outdoor recreation.

The project of a one-story brick bath, in which the bathroom is separated from the shower. To reduce heat loss and store firewood, a vestibule is equipped. The steam room can accommodate 5 people at the same time. The living room has a corner for the kitchen.

Do-it-yourself brick bath: step by step instructions

When the building material is brought to the site where the brick bath will be erected, the area is cleared. Remove debris, branches and grass, remove a layer of sod.

Foundation

The cleared area for the bath is marked out for the foundation according to the selected project. Two pegs are driven in at the corners, as shown in the photo above. Between them they stretch a fishing line or twine. Right angle control. To do this, according to the plan, the diagonals are measured and compared with the actual ones. If something does not converge, then one of the corners is shifted to the middle or out. Racks are fixed so as not to damage them during earthworks.

Digging a pit under strip foundation brick bath. Its depth should be below the freezing point. In areas where the air temperature in winter drops to -35 °, they decrease by 1.8 and deeper. This is necessary for strength heaving soil did not extrude the structure and did not lead to the appearance of cracks.

Advice! On unstable soils, a strip foundation is also used for a brick bath, but it is reinforced with screw or bored piles. The latter are lowered below the freezing of the soil, and the tape is left on the surface.

The walls of the pit are cleaned and leveled so that they do not crumble. A two-layer pillow is laid at the bottom, which consists of sand and gravel. The level of each is 10 cm. The first is rammed and leveled. Soak the surface with water to soften it. The cake is finished with waterproofing. Use roofing material or a similar material that will eliminate the capillary rise of moisture from the foundation to the brick walls of the bath.

On top of the trench under the brick bath, a wooden formwork is mounted to a height of 40 cm. The shields are made of moisture-resistant plywood with a laminated coating, which improves the quality of the base, or from boards. The waterproofing material is laid with an overlap so that the solution does not squeeze it out. Inside the gutters place a metal crate of reinforcement. The boards are reinforced with struts and jumpers from above.

After pouring the foundation for a bath of bricks, the concrete is compacted with a deep vibrator, which eliminates the cavities and increases the strength of the mixture. The surface is leveled with a trowel to make it easier to maintain it when the walls are pushed out. If the tape is poured under a brick bath in the summer, then the structure is moistened once a day and covered with oilcloth so that the plane does not crack due to moisture evaporation.

Walls

Before starting the pasture of the brick walls of the bath, waterproofing the surface of the foundation is performed. To do this, it is cleaned and knocked down the resulting influxes. The top is covered with bituminous mastic, on which roofing material is laid. An overlap of 15 cm is made between the sheets. Solid masonry walls are not used, in which the outer and inner planes are located without a gap. Such a scheme consumes material and needs external insulation.

Metal beacons are placed in the corners of the future bath. They are leveled in the horizontal and vertical plane. Between the posts, pull the cord to the height of the row, taking into account the thickness of the seam. Laying starts from one of the corners. The twine is rearranged as it progresses. The evenness of the plane is controlled by a plumb or fishing line between the beacons. To do this, the latter is shifted outside the wall. The basement of a brick bath is built from blocks without cavities, the walls are built from hollow ones. If work is carried out in late spring or summer, then the bricks are additionally moistened to prevent the mortar from drying out.

Roof and floor

For greater strength, an armored belt is mounted on top, which will prevent the destruction of the brick walls of the bath. Formwork is constructed around the perimeter of the building, a metal crate is laid and concrete is poured. After 2 days, they remove the shields and knock down the influxes. After gaining strength, the upper plane is covered with bituminous mastic and roofing material is laid to protect the roof supports from moisture. A Mauerlat is installed on top of the armored belt. The latter represents wooden beam with a cross section of 10 by 10 cm. It is attached to the walls of a brick bath with anchor bolts or on studs that were laid during pouring.

Install a truss system for the roof of a brick bath. It is supported and fixed to the Mauerlat. The lower part of the trusses acts as ceiling beams or they are mounted separately. Fasten the crate, waterproofing and roofing. From the bathhouse, the draft ceiling is lined with boards and a foil vapor barrier is laid. From the attic, the surface is covered with a membrane vapor barrier and mineral wool is placed between the lags. Close the insulation with another layer of vapor barrier.

The space inside the foundation of a brick bath is covered with sand and rammed. At the level of the plinth, a wooden beam is laid, which serves as the basis for the floor. A log with a section of 25 or 15 by 10 is used. It is fixed with anchor bolts to the foundation or corners to the wall. From below, boards are knocked out that will hold the insulation. Cover the surface with waterproofing and lay mineral wool. Another layer of waterproofing is placed on top and a subfloor is laid in the bath.

Exterior and interior decoration

After installing the subfloor and ceiling, they proceed to the interior and exterior decoration of the brick bath. In the steam room, the walls are covered with aluminum foil, which acts as a vapor barrier. From above, a crate of timber with a cross section of 5 by 5 cm is stuffed. An electric cable is pulled in the corrugation and conclusions are drawn for the lamps. A lining made of larch or oak is mounted on the frame, shelves are attached.

Information! A separate foundation is built under the stove in the steam room of a brick bath. The perimeter walls are protected with a stainless steel sheet or freed from insulation and finishing. Pay attention to the node where the chimney passes through the ceiling so that rainwater does not flow down it into the bath.

The rest room and dressing room are sheathed with wooden clapboard or block house, having previously mounted the frame. In the washing room of a brick bath, wood is used on the ceiling. The walls and floor are laid out with ceramic or porcelain tiles.

If the laying of the walls of the bath was carried out using the well method with a heater inside, then external finishing is not required, since it is replaced by a facing brick. In other cases, the walls are insulated with mineral wool, fixing it to glue and plastic dowels. After that, a crate made of metal or wood is installed and the bath is sheathed with a block house, clapboard or siding.

Turnkey brick bath

If the bath is not used seasonally, then it will be equipped with heating. This is necessary to maintain the same temperature, so that the wood finish does not lead to fluctuations, and the brickwork does not pick up moisture. Install a solid fuel or gas boiler if the heating is water. Install radiators under windows or underfloor heating. In the latter version, the floor in a brick bath, after tamping the sand, is poured with a concrete screed, waterproofing is laid, insulated and a pipe is laid. Only after that lay the finish.

Advice! As an electric heating for a brick bath, an infrared film or mats are used, which are mounted under the tile.

Supply and exhaust ventilation is provided, which accelerates the exchange of moisture inside the bath with the environment. At the junction of the channels with the steam room, a valve is mounted that blocks the flow of hot air into the rest room. The backlight is made from LED chandeliers and tape to reduce consumption and make the building economical.

Brick bath: photo

The photo shows an example of a bath with a masonry of 1.5 bricks. The insulation is made inside the wall, so no external finishing is required. There is a window only in the rest room to reduce heat loss. For the roof, a metal tile was chosen, which is more expensive than corrugated board, but surpasses it visually.

A small brick bath, the walls of which are lined with a well. There is a dressing room for outerwear and firewood storage.

Brick bath with a terrace. In summer, they make a place to relax on the latter by installing garden furniture and a barbecue.

The implemented project of the bath, in which the area of ​​​​the rest room is expanded with a bay window. The advantage is good natural light.

A brick bath with a shed roof is suitable for areas where there are strong winds in winter, but little rainfall. Advantage - roofing is cheaper, disadvantage - it is impossible to equip an attic.

In the steam room of a brick bath, a metal stove is installed or laid out from fireclay bricks. The space behind it is left open so as not to spoil the finish.

If necessary, install two heaters. One is made of bricks, the second is electric. Power is calculated by the volume of the steam room in the bath.

If the laying inside the brick bath was done for jointing, then the installation of the lining is not required. At the same time, the vapor barrier of the surfaces is considered.

When laying a wooden floor in a rest room of a brick bath, a recess is made under the firebox window. It is ennobled with tiles or metal sheets.

Conclusion

A brick bath is a building that will please with its service life and health benefits. The project may cost more than a wooden bath, but its main advantage is fire resistance. The rest room is decorated with pine materials. The latter are not suitable for a steam room, because when heated, they release a resin that can burn the skin. Aspen is suitable for shelves, because it is heat-intensive and does not deform from temperature and humidity. Below is a video with an overview of one of the brick baths.

Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

The bath has long become one of the invariable attributes of country life. If it is not possible to contact construction team or you just want to put your hand to everything, a brick bath with your own hands will become profitable investment money and strength. Below step-by-step instruction, video and photo report will help in creating a budget bathhouse that will last for decades.

The foundation of a brick bath

After the place is chosen, the markup is made, the arrangement of the foundation begins. The best option is a strip foundation. To do this, you need to dig a trench, put together a formwork from the boards, sprinkle the bottom of the trench with sand (a sand cushion helps to evenly distribute the load). Reinforcement can be done using masonry mesh. The depth of the bookmark will depend on climatic conditions.

In this situation, a strip foundation was made for a bath with a size of 2.4x4.7 m. The height of the foundation is 30 cm, the width is 15 cm. You can prepare the concrete solution yourself, you can order it ready.

Since it is planned to build a brick bath, you need to wait for the foundation to stand. The start time of laying depends on the type of foundation and the characteristics of the concrete solution.

To protect against the appearance of fungus, mold, before starting masonry work, you can treat the foundation with waterproofing Hydroshield.

Walling

When building a brick bath with your own hands, it is easier to use one and a half red brick.

To determine the amount of material, it is necessary to divide the planned width and height of the walls by the height and width of the brick multiplied by each other. This method is used if the laying is carried out in one brick, as in this case.

At the same time, it is necessary to leave ventilation gaps, plan windows and doors. Jumpers are mounted above doors, window openings.

Roof

Floor beams are installed directly on the bricks in the prepared holes. The ends of the beams that will be in contact with the brickwork are wrapped with roofing material, only the end part remains open. The simplest option is a shed roof. After laying the beams, the flooring is made of boards.

To equip the waterproofing, the beams are wrapped in fabric asbestos, which is fixed with a stapler. When the beams are hidden on top, a mixture of clay and sawdust is applied. For this roof, a proportion of 2 buckets x 2 buckets is sufficient. When the mixture dries, it is sprinkled with sand.

The location of the chimney requires special attention. Compliance with the recommendations of experts will help to avoid a fire. Wood must not come into contact with the chimney. This area is sutured with a metal sheet.

The place where the stove will stand and the chimney will pass inside the room is insulated with metal.

The space around the chimney in the ceiling area is insulated with expanded clay. The lower reflector is attached to the armature.

Another sheet of metal is installed on top of the expanded clay layer.

During the construction of a brick bath, the Rus-9 furnace was used.

Brick bath interior

The next step in the phased construction of a brick bath is the floor. Porcelain stoneware is a practical and aesthetic option. So that the tile does not deteriorate during the winter, it is better to put it on a frost-resistant solution.

Errors in masonry will quickly make themselves felt in such wet spots after heavy rainfall as in the photo. If a similar problem manifests itself, you will have to miss all the seams.

After installing the stove and installing the chimney, you need to make a test firebox to make sure that everything is done correctly.

They are subsequently sewn up with boards. Boards are not used near the firebox. Then you get a recess suitable for storing not a large number firewood.

As a result, the wooden floor will create comfortable conditions for people leaving the steam room. And finishing the space in front of the firebox with porcelain stoneware will ensure fire safety.

It is better to sew up the ceiling in the steam room with lime clapboard.

For the ceiling in the dressing room, an ordinary pine lining is suitable.

The walls are sheathed with clapboard. In places where the skin will be in contact with the wall, do not use metal fasteners. After finishing the interior space, the heating time to 80°C was reduced to 50 minutes.

Bath - an invariable attribute of all summer residents and owners country houses. Nowadays services construction companies- a rather expensive pleasure, but I want to build a bathhouse. That's why good decision will be the construction of a bath with their own hands. Since a brick is more durable, reliable and less fire hazardous than a traditional wooden frame, most summer residents prefer this particular building material.

Building a brick bath with your own hands requires some skills and knowledge of technology. But if you carefully study this article, it will not be difficult to solve this issue. In addition, this article will provide step-by-step instructions, in which we will briefly talk about the construction of the foundation and roof, focusing on the technology for proper laying of brick walls, we will also help you choose high-quality bricks, and give some tips on warming and waterproofing rooms.

Advantages and disadvantages

Definitely ideal building materials does not exist. Therefore, brick, like any other material, has its advantages. Let's consider them below.

  • Durability. With proper installation and operation, such a building can be used for more than 100 years!
  • Environmental friendliness. Brick does not emit any chemicals when heated.
  • Fire safety. The probability of ignition of a brick bath is almost zero.
  • Design. Since the brick structure is very stable, it is possible to build a structure of various shapes and sizes, create an unusual, interesting layout, and so on. In addition, the brick itself, if the outer walls are erected from a decorative look, looks quite attractive and solid.
  • The brick does not rot and is not susceptible to damage by fungus and other microorganisms.
  • The shrinkage period of a brick bath is much less than that of a bath made of a wooden log house or timber.

There are also a number of disadvantages.

  • High material cost. A very controversial opinion of most inexperienced craftsmen. In fact, the differences in price when building a bath of the same size and the same projects are minimal.
  • High heat capacity. To warm up a brick bath, it will take several times more time than to heat the same wooden bath.
  • High thermal conductivity. Brick conducts heat and cold well, but this problem is solved by high-quality vapor barrier.
  • Hygroscopicity. Brick walls are able to absorb moisture, which will inevitably lead to deformation and destruction of the walls. The problem can be solved by installing a layer of waterproofing.
  • Due to the low vapor conductivity, brick tends to change color and collapse. Good vapor barrier and ventilation will save you from this.

Choosing a place and a brick for a bath

For the construction of a bath the best option the use of white silicate or slightly less expensive red clay bricks is considered. Since this material is produced at high temperature, it becomes a monolithic, strong and reliable raw material. Precisely because of their specifications such a brick is also used in the construction of a stove-heater.

In addition to these two types, ceramic solid corrugated bricks of the M100 or M125 brand, solid smooth bricks M100 or M175 are used for the construction of bath walls. The dimensions of each are the same - 25x12x6.5 cm. The retail price varies from 10 to 15 rubles.

In addition to the main building material, you will need:

  • Waterproofing material (roll, bulk).
  • Vapor barrier material.
  • Metal fasteners (bolts, nails, screws, etc.).
  • Lumber for interior cladding and framing.
  • Roofing material.
  • Beams for the truss system.
  • Reinforcement for the foundation.
  • Sand.
  • Crushed stone or broken brick and other materials.

The most basic rule when choosing a place for construction is humidity. A brick bath should be built on a dry area. If there is a reservoir nearby, then the distance from it should exceed 30 meters.

If you plan to use firewood as fuel, the distance from neighboring buildings should be from 15 m, and if gas or electricity, then the distance can be safely reduced to 5–6 m. Also, to save money, you can attach a bathhouse to the main house, thereby facilitating wiring of all communications.

Of the tools you will need:

  • Trowel.
  • Shovel.
  • Concrete mixer.
  • Plumb.
  • Building level.
  • Plywood for formwork.
  • Square.
  • Roulette.
  • Pickaxe.
  • Wedges.
  • Stitching.
  • Cord mooring and other tools.

Design

First you need to draw up a project, a drawing of the future building. It must indicate all the features of the structure: from appearance, number of rooms and overall dimensions to the wiring diagram of all communications, calculation of the required amount of materials and weight distribution of the structure.

Most simple projects baths consist of one room, which is both a steam room, a washing room, and a dressing room. But this option is not always convenient, especially when several people use the bath. Therefore, in most projects it has in stock:

  • Steam room. Equipped as a sauna with dry steam or as a traditional Russian bath. During construction, taking into account safety rules, it is important to install the steam room door so that it opens outward.

Important! Experts do not recommend building a steam room with high ceilings, the floor-to-ceiling height should not exceed 2.5 m, since additional costs will have to be spent on construction. financial resources, time and effort,and it will take much longer to warm up to the desired temperature of such a room.

  • Rest room. You can sit there, chat and even have a bite to eat.
  • Dressing room or dressing room. If the bath area is limited, then here, in addition to wardrobes, you can install benches, armchairs or chairs, a table and even a sofa. Also in this room fuel and bath accessories are usually stored.
  • Washing (represented by a shower or pool).
  • Veranda.

For example, if a bathhouse is being built as an extension to the main residential building, the washing room may not be equipped, since the bathroom at home will play its role.

If you want to save money, on the Internet you can find ready-made projects of brick baths and detailed instructions to them.

Foundation

Already on hand finished project future bath, you can proceed to the first stage of construction - the construction of the foundation. The base for a brick bath can be different. The choice of type depends on a large number of factors, among them: soil composition, climate, region, soil freezing level and groundwater depth, and so on.

If it is planned to equip the pool in the washing room, then a separate foundation is needed for it, as, in fact, for the heater.

Since the brick structure is quite heavy, the foundation must be strong enough to support the weight of the bath for many decades. The most common is the strip foundation. It can be either shallow or deep, consisting of concrete blocks, bricks or cement mortar. Let us briefly consider the last option, since the technology of its construction is no different from the construction technology for any other building:

  1. The first step is to clear the area from small debris, twigs, bushes, and so on.
  2. After that, markup is carried out according to the project. Wooden pegs are installed in the corners and along the walls, a thread is pulled between them.
  3. They dig a trench with a depth of 0.3–0.8 m and a width of 25–40 cm, depending on the thickness of the walls and their design. Please note that such a foundation should be located at least a meter above the groundwater level.
  4. A layer (10–20 cm) of sand is poured to the bottom, moistened with water and compacted tightly.
  5. The same layer of crushed stone or broken stone is laid on top of the sand, moistened, and carefully compacted.
  6. A layer (sometimes several layers) of waterproofing material, such as roofing felt or geotextile, is placed on the resulting pillow.
  7. Install formwork. It should rise above ground level by 30–60 cm.
  8. A reinforced skeleton of metal rods with a diameter of 1.2–1.6 cm is mounted inside. The rows are connected to each other with a rigid wire.
  9. In order for the base to come out even, without defects, there should be no chips or cracks on the sheets of plywood or OSB (if wooden formwork is being mounted). It is also worth pre-moistening the inner walls of the formwork or wrapping it in a layer of polyethylene.
  10. Cement-concrete mortar is poured inside the structure. You can buy it or prepare it yourself using finely sifted river or quarry sand, fine crushed stone, cement powder and water.
  11. The formwork is removed after 5-14 days, depending on the average daily temperature. The first few days, to prevent deformation, the base is watered 3-4 times a day. To protect the foundation from precipitation, a blind area is poured from greasy clay and rubble at a slight angle, 1 m wide, as shown in the diagram below.
  12. Cement completely hardens and gains strength only after 28 days.

Important! Remember to leave 8-12 cm diameter ventilation holes in the foundation strip and build a separate foundation for the stove if you plan to use a heater.

At this stage, it is necessary to provide for the wiring of water supply and sewerage systems, electricity and gas can be installed without problems later.

Types and sequence of masonry walls

The construction of brick walls should begin after the waterproofing of the foundation. To do this, roll materials such as roofing material, technoelast, glass isol or various bitumen and bitumen-polymer mastics are used. Most often, walls are erected using a single-row dressing system, since it is simple and can be installed alone without much difficulty. This design is a change of spoon and bonder rows of bricks. It is used when it is not planned to use the front layer of facing bricks.

For those who are not familiar with the technology of laying walls: a spoon row is a row of bricks that are laid with their side along the wall, and a bonded row is laid with short ends to the outside of the wall.

There are three main types of masonry brick walls:

  • Solid masonry, when the brick is laid in two rows without a gap between the rows.
  • Masonry with a ventilation gap of 40–60 mm.
  • Lightweight laying. It consists of two walls, between which insulation is poured, whether it is expanded clay, fine slag or other analogues.

Most often, it is the third type of construction that is used, since it allows you to reduce pressure on the foundation and save on building materials, since bricks are quite expensive nowadays.

Solid masonry is no less popular, as it is more durable and reliable.

Regardless of the type of masonry chosen, they all start from the corners. First you need to lay out six rows of bricks on the mortar in the corners. A string must be drawn along each row. Nails are wrapped around them, which are inserted into the seams between the bricks at a distance of 3-4 mm from the vertical of the row. The cord helps to determine the evenness of the masonry. For this purpose, a building level and a plumb line are also used.

The basement of the bath, if necessary, should be laid out from solid brick, and the walls themselves - from hollow.

When laying, it is important to work quickly so that the cement mortar does not have time to set. If a construction works carried out in the summer, the brick is pre-moistened with water. The thickness of the layer of such a solution should be 2–3 cm.

There are several variations of solid masonry, among them:

  • "single row"
  • "multi-row"

They differ in that when single-rowing, there is a constant change of tychkovy and spoon rows, and with a multi-row masonry system, tychkovye rows go through 5–6 spoon rows.

When laying bonded rows, it is necessary to apply a mortar with an indent of 10 mm when filling the joints and 30-35 mm when laying a wasteland. If you have bricks with any defects lying around, do not rush to throw them away, it is better to use spoon rows for laying, in addition to corners and support zones.

Internal load-bearing walls must be at least 20 cm thick. Transverse walls usually consist of brick halves or quarters. If the length of such a wall exceeds 1.5 m, then they must be further strengthened with a reinforcement belt every three rows.

Door and window frames are mounted directly in the masonry process. Brick-thick wooden blocks are installed in the side parts of the openings. They are wrapped with a layer of roofing material and tarred.

It is also necessary to equip the ventilation holes. Typically, in such baths, a ventilation system of a supply and exhaust type is installed. It consists of two holes: one regulates the flow of air, the second - the exhaust hole. The first is best placed under the bottom of the stove, and the second - as far as possible from the heater, 7–8 centimeters below the ceiling. You can also provide special dampers that will help regulate the air flow in the steam room.

Calculation of the number of bricks

Due to incorrect calculations, beginners often acquire one and a half times more material than they really need. To understand how much brick you need to buy, the area of ​​\u200b\u200ball the walls is calculated separately, excluding the area of ​​\u200b\u200bdoor and window openings. The number that turned out is multiplied by the thickness of the walls. When calculating, be sure to take into account the thickness of the bricks themselves and the mortar joints between them.

To facilitate this process, you can use open access tables or special online services. If you decide to create an individual bath project, then it is better to contact the specialists - they will help to carry out all the necessary calculations.

Roof and floor for a brick bath

The roof structure can be any: one, two or more slopes. The more complex the roof structure and the greater the angle of inclination, the more expensive the installation of the roof will be. The sequence of work also depends on the choice of design.

Holes for special mounting pins are drilled in the upper rows of walls. Mauerlat and ceiling joists are mounted on top of them. In the case when the ends of the beams are in contact with brick walls, they are wrapped with roofing material. After installing the beams, the flooring is made of unedged boards. It is also necessary to provide a hole for the chimney.

In order for the ceiling logs to last longer, they must be additionally covered with a layer of waterproofing. For this purpose, you can use fabric absinthe, which is attached with construction staples. A layer of a mixture of clay and sawdust is poured on top in equal proportions. As soon as the mixture dries, it is sprinkled with sand. The place where the chimney will be in contact with the ceiling must be additionally insulated and metal sheets should be installed there.

After that, the truss system is assembled. Rafter legs are attached to the Mauerlat using metal corners and self-tapping screws. Additional supports are installed between the slopes (struts, beds, puffs, and so on) if the roof has two or more slopes. A crate of small slats is mounted on top of the beams, covered with waterproofing and roofing material, whether it be corrugated board, metal tiles or other modern analogues, if necessary, a counter-lattice is made.

At this stage, floor logs are mounted (using beams with a section of 15x10, 25x10) directly to the bottom of the brick walls using the same metal corners. To each log, on its two sides, cranial bars are nailed, which will become a support for the subfloor. An unedged board is fixed on top of the bars, followed by a layer of waterproofing, insulation and another layer of waterproofing. Finished floor installed.

finish line

The last step in the construction of a brick bath with your own hands is the insulation and waterproofing of the walls from the inside and, if necessary, facade cladding, installation of shelves, stoves, furniture, connecting water supply and sewerage, installing a shower stall, doors and windows, if they have not been installed earlier, wiring electricity, decorative trim and other minor work.

You can build a brick bath with your own hands using the information presented in this article. If you carried out all the construction work correctly, adhered to all the norms, tips and recommendations, then such a steam room will serve you for many years.